HM Men | Etiqueta Negra

From the interior of the stores, you wouldn’t even know that you were in the heart of SoHo at all. Decorated with vintage cars, bikes, tyres and sports equipment, Etiqueta Negra is the shopping-mans heaven. While women are wowed by chandeliers and beautiful mannequins, we can forgive men for feeling a little bored when out shopping, but with both a womenswear and menswear collection, it won’t be a struggle enticing our shopping companions to Etiqueta Negra.

The CEO of the company Federivo Alvarez Castillo certainly isn’t shy of fashion knowledge, having assisted in the setting-up of companies including Mango and Bowen. A history of graphic design will certainly have aided the individual décor of the shop, which started in Soho and is soon to be launched in the fashionable-cities of Paris and Milano.

The Italian brand with the Spanish name for ‘black label’ appeals to the casual side of the city-slicker. Although there is formal wear, including purple vichy shirts and dark heather and grey pinstripe suits, the polo and sportswear range is the most defining of the brand.

The up-and-coming PE 2010 collection is inspired by bien vivre, polos, vintage cars and the military. This translates into biker gear, desert boots, cargo pants and green hues. The brand manages to twist the strict formalities of the inspirations to make them modern and trendy. The ready-to-wear collection encompasses a sports ambiance, with poplin shirts and grosgrain collars on the jersey polo tops as well as simple black or white tops with the brands motif.
Although the design house boasts of a casual wear appeal, be warned, with the quality of the Italian fabrics, this is one set of daywear you wouldn’t want to get dirty playing football in. -Isabella Stockwell

Etiqueta Negra

273 Lafayette St. New York, NY 10012

(212) 219-4015

www.etiquetanegra.us

Copyright ©2010 Haute Mimi International LLC. All rights reserved.

Mens Fashion | Closet Tips Part 2: When To Save

With the beautifully warm and cheerful summer weather now well underway, you want to look cool and casual for days on the beach or barbecues with friends. Here are a few tips on where to save, yet still look stylish for summer...

(available at Uniqlo from $4.90)

Simple cotton t-shirts in bright colours work wonders for any summer outfit. Adding a splash of colour atop a pair of tailored shorts or linen trousers can really add a nice flair to your look. Whilst graphic design t-shirts can often cost a pretty penny, a plain coloured option is friendlier on the wallet. The added bonus is that rather than relying on the print as the main focal point of your outfit, a simple colour play can look great. Make sure to choose a lighter colour, whilst keeping in mind which colours work best for you.

(Topman Orange Candy Stripe Scarf - £10)

Although you may think of scarves as a winter option, a linen or fine cotton piece is just as useful for summer. A summer scarf can actually be a great way of keeping cool in the heat, whilst also adding a nice touch of interest to your outfit. Try to keep it simple, with plain light colours, or fine stripes. Whether you wrap the scarf around you twice, or simply let it hang around your neck and flutter in the wind, remember that your tying method will change the dynamics of your look.

(Topman Yellow Stitched Stripe Belt - £12)

Whether you decide to wear shorts, light wash jeans or linen trousers, adding a colourful belt can really help finish a look. Your accessories actually play an important part in keeping the colours and theme of your outfit in union. Try adding this yellow belt to a pair of light blue jeans and a white polo shirt for an unexpected twist. Or match your colourful belt to your equally colourful canvas shoes. Try to keep the belt design simple, however if you want to add patterns, make sure that they do not have to compete with the rest of your outfit.

(ASOS Oxford Plimsoles - £10)

(ASOS Striped Espadrilles - £15)

Whilst flip flops may be the footwear of choice poolside or at the beach, you are probably going to need something a tad more hard wearing for general use. Rather than sweating it out in leather shoes or chunky sneakers, try adding a simple pair of canvas shoes to your closet. The lightweight material is perfect for warmer weather. Feel free to dispense of socks when wearing espadrilles and keep your feet cool. Cheap and cheerful plimsoles come in a vast array of colours and patterns, so you are sure to find something that suits you.

Style Advice for Men By Premier Stylist Gabrielle Teare

I love styling men, I grew up in an all male family I have no sisters, and I have always bought clothes for them and all the men in my life! Men should wear great colours that suit them, cool designs and expensive shoes. Brands I like are Etro shirts, Dunhill has great shirts and coloured jumpers very good quality, Paul Smith does nice shirts, Cheeky Monkeys, Diesel, Lindeberg do great jeans.

Cheap shoes will drive women away trust me. The number of conversations women have about tasteless shoes would be a revelation to men. Several of my friends have rejected advances because of shoes!

Likewise ill matched colours such as grey jumpers with brown trousers will be noted, commented upon and score 0 points. Match the colour of your tie to your shirt yellow does not go with pink, dots do not work with stripes. If you need help hire a personal shopper or personal stylist. Your looks will improve and as people start to notice you so will your confidence.

Cashmere jumpers are lovely there are great colours out there for men, Dunhill, Aquascutum, with their new design team, Armani and Ralph Lauren all make fantastic designs. They are seriously nice to wear and soft to the touch- cuddly. Mens styling for very tall men is harder, there are many men out there over 6’4”, it has taken me ages to source clothes for them. High and Mighty is a good source but the suit quality and selection for slim men is poor. I suggest their Ralph Lauren range and to go elsewhere for bespoke tailoring for suits. The Italian suit maker Sartoria is great and reasonably priced. Segun Adelaja has clothes to dream about. Very elegant and sophisticated classic with a twist. Timothy Everest, does a range at Marks and Spencers. Shoes such as loafers try Fins for great colours in soft suede. For work shoes Church’s and Prada make nice shoes that if you are typical of the men I know will last for 10 years or more. Cost per wear becomes negligible. Womens shoes cost far more and last about 6 months!

Ties again should be expensive women notice and will comment on polyester ties go for silk and if your budget is tight have less of them. Buy Hermes, Salvatore Ferragamo, to instantly upgrade your look under £100.

As for accessories for men buy what you love and aim to keep for many years the watch you choose says everything about your style. Cufflinks should be gold, if price is an issue buy one pair. The Italians and French always have fabulous accessories to impress do the same. Ingle and Rhodes bespoke the only ethical jewellers in London do a great range of cufflinks. Man bags always strike me as suspect, especially if they have a twee little strap, leave hand bags to women is my advice, computer bags and brief cases are fine. Hats are fun, to be noticed wear a hat! They look seriously nice and are very cool as well a panama in the sun looks great. They also keep your head warm as well as attracting women like flies. Forget LYNX which purports to attract every woman on the beach, purleese- just wear a hat!

Men's Fashion: Howe SS09

These are a selection of my favourite looks from the Spring '09 look book from Hause of Howe. It seems that no review of collections in the current climate can avoid the financial factor and these are no different. Luckily however these pieces stand the test, classic designs with a slight creative and contemporary twist.

I was particularly intrigued by the blazer in the last image, which actually has an interestingly placed zip. Once zipped, with the collar turned up, the blazer wonderfully transforms into a simple casual jacket. What attracts me is that this versatility used for the detailing, no doubt, makes the pieces a clever investment. This creativity in design is indeed one of the strongest features of the collection. Equally, aside from the functional detailing, the collection also features subtle aesthetic detailing. The white shirt of the first look for example, with its light digital printing, shows a creative element that gives a refreshing addition to any outfit. I also enjoyed the casual jacket with shoulder epaulettes, which provides a wonderfully rugged feel, and would work well thrown over a plaid shirt and woven tie.

One of the pleasures of a wonderful outfit is the ability to take in a new and exciting detail every time one looks upon it. Indeed, this is something that the Howe collection tackles easily. Clothing that is well constructed and will stand the test of time, and are also of an elegant timeless design, are what one should be investing in this season. The Howe collection provides this, whilst also adding innovative detailing. However, with the artisan inspiration of the collection as a whole feeling natural, I still could not shake the feeling that it did seem somewhat restrained. Whilst I enjoy the collection, I wish there was an extra element of creativity, in the form of a few more innovative garments. - D.K.

Men's Essentials by D.K. : Knits

Winter slowly creeps upon us and we must wave a solemn goodbye to summer, returning languidly to school or work for another round. Although for many the colder weather is unwelcome, for me it is a wonderful release for creativity and reinvention clothing wise. With the colder weather comes the opportunity to layer, wrap up and explore a vast array of textures and cosy yet practical fabrics. Also comes the inevitable excitement (although for many a dread) of rearranging our wardrobes, pulling out old favourites and making new additions.

For men knitwear plays a very important role, especially for the majority working over the winter period and trying to keep warm for the commute. Sadly however this attempt is often met by many men through the rather chaotic process of jumping into a pile of old and dingy knitwear, filled with long forgotten Christmas presents, and coming out wearing as much of it as will fit under a suit jacket.

Knitwear is often a difficult area for men in colder weather, it is where many will split into two camps: those wearing that old and lumpy sweater knitted rather clumsily, or wearing many thin layers and pulling on an oversized winter coat. As far as layering goes, it is a technique that requires a knowledge of your own shape and the shapes that work for you. However generally speaking layering is the easiest direction to go, simply wearing an undershirt, thin v-neck sweaters or a simply cardigan over a shirt and a simple pea coat over their suit. Yet when approached in the correct way, wearing a chunky knit or statement sweater can work wonderfully both smart and casual for winter wear.

The essential part of such knitwear is the simplicity behind it. You can easily pair it with a shirt, trousers, shoes, scarf and if needs be a coat. Yet it also works on a casual level, paired with jeans and boots or trainers. The wonderful thing is that the garment covers a lot of you and holds a lot of visual importance, therefore the simple addition can reinvent an entire look.

The main considerations are that of function, style and shape/fit.

• The function of the piece is how and when you intend to wear it. If you require it mainly for work purposes, you will want to go for a more conservative style, usually a simple cut cable knit cardigan in order to show your tie, whilst also looking great and keeping you warm. However if you intend to wear it mainly for casual events, you can go, to name one example, for a slightly more patterned and colourful crew neck design. Obviously the rules here are not hard fast, it depends on what is acceptable for your work place, what you feel comfortable in and your personal tastes.
  
• The style of the piece is also a key consideration due to the variety that exists. Depending on tastes one can go for a cardigan, v-neck sweater, crew neck sweater, or in the realm of statement knits any adventurous hybrid or design. Obviously choosing one that works for you and your needs is best.
• Shape (and fit) is usually the last consideration when you have found the style you want. Here you can go in two general directions: either you get a fitted knit, or go for slightly oversized and chunky, usually reserved for casual winter wear. Obviously general fit rules still apply, although you can usually be slightly less strict, due to the flexible nature of the fabrics and construction.
  
• Take note that for sleeve length, slightly longer tends to be preferable. The reason being that unlike a simple sweater that should show your shirt cuff, these knits are intended to cover you, in that you will want them to sit past your wrist, however when pulled straight to cover the majoriy of your hands.
• Please note however that unlike something such as a shirt or blazer, the very essence of the chunky knit or statement knit, means that you can be far more adventurous with fitting rules and styles. However unless you are totally comfortable with exploring these, sticking to more traditional ruling here is safest!
  

Once you have found the piece, you will want to keep it that way throughout the winter months. The majority of these pieces, for maximum warmth, will tend to be made of wool (or wool blend), which is actually also fireproof (play with fire at your own risk). Here are a few easy to follow rules regarding care:

• Keep the garment clean between wears, lightly brush after wearing it just to stop dirt gathering in between the weave. This is made easier by the very nature of the fabric, given that the weave is usually done with thicker threads.
• Remember that wool is flexible, it will retain its shape however can also be stretched. In order to help keep the shape, make sure not to overwear the garment and give it time to reshape in between wears. Try to use a wide shoulder hanger to help keep the form (wire hangers are for breaking into cars as a makeshift slim jim, not for your cupboard!)
• Do not keep woolen items together and touching, if you have more than one try to seperate them. This helps prevent the garments becoming fuzzy via strands becoming interlocked and tugging at one another.
  
• Try not to wash the garment too often as this will cause the wool to become weak and shorten the garment life.
• For washing machines try to use a wool cycle, or failing this a cold cycle. However remember that water that is too cold can also harm the wool, often shocking the fabric and causing it to shrink even more than if submerged in hot water. For hand washes try to use room temperature water and gently clean the garment, avoid rubbing the fabric to maintain the strength.
  
• Always test your fabric cleaner or treatment on a small area just to be safe.
• Never use a dryer unless you intend to give the sweater to a small child.
  
• When washing a cardigan with buttons or zips, it is often best to make sure these are fully done up. For those of you that have a zipped garment, where the zip seems to have gone wavy, it is as the fabric has shrunk slightly, yet the zip has maintained its full length. By keeping the buttons or zip done up, it helps keep the shape far better.
• Try to dry on a flat surface to help keep the form and prevent odd stretching.

Following these basic rules will help you find and care for that garment you will love for winter and hopefully years to come!

Images courtesy of Asos, Oki Ni and Men's Style.

Men's Essentials: Boots by DK

I thought for this essentials, to do a more image based post. Hopefully, this is easier to follow than the usual block text and gives more actual examples of various looks.




Although I could have written about a pair of smart leather shoes for this post, which are undoubtedly an essential for men, I thought I would give attention to something that many may overlook as a purchase.

With autumn/winter rapidly approaching, boots are both a practical and stylish option for mens' footwear. For wet and windy commutes to and from work, boots are simply indispensable given that their rugged and wonderfully waterproof nature. In contrast to their inherently robust qualities, they are yet also easily paired with smart wear. They look comfortably stylish paired with both jeans and a jacket or with a wool suit. The practicality of the boots is inherent to their design, able to keep your feet dry in pounding winter rain, with grip that will stop you slipping and sliding on the pavement or when running for the train. Yet they can also be very kind to your clothing. Heavy rain, for example, can often be mortally wounding to your suit, yet the boot helps in one aspect. When walking with wet trousers, the material towards the bottom is easily ripped and ravaged. However with boots this is no longer a problem due to the high sitting point of the ends of the tousers they create.

Rather than simple explain the various ways boots can be worn and worked, I thought to rather show collection examples to hopefully inspire.

Please click for larger images.

General Tips

When choosing your boots, it is best to go with a pair that can be worked both smart and casual, as this offers the best investment. However if you decide to buy further pairs do not be afraid to look for exclusively smart or casual styles to fit in with your specific style or chosen look. The main tip for buying boots is to shop around and try to look at as many styles as possible. The vast array of designs means that everybody can find a specific reflection and extension of their own personal style. In order to have the most versatile style of boot, it is recommended to go with lace up boots rather than any other style as they tend to work the easiest, both dressed up and casually.

Fit & Comfort

When buying boots, you ought to look at the purchase as an investment, as they are easily able to serve you for as long as a decade without need to resole. It is often said that old boots are the most comfortable footwear a man can own, however understandbly this is not immediately the case. There are therefore some guidelines to follow:

• Fit is as usual the most important consideration, yet far more important in this respect as ill fitting boots can do major damage to your feet and bones. Therefore make sure to get boots that feel snug, yet not too tight, you do not want your heels to rub against the back when moving or else blistering will be a major issue.
  
• Make sure to walk and crouch in the boots when trying them on in order to get a better feel for their fit and that you are comfortable when moving.
• When you go to the shop, make sure to wear the type of socks you intend to wear with your boots later on, otherwise you may be fooled into buying the wrong size.
• Do not wear your boots outdoors for a full day the first time you wear them. All boots regardless of how expensive they are or how supple the leather is, require breaking in.
• In order to break your boots in, make sure to wear thick socks, or even two pairs, so that the boots fit tightly, and make sure to lace up the boots fully.
• Wear the boots around your home for the first few days and try to move in as many ways as possible to start creating the first creases. You also want to start wearing in the soles and begin to mould the innersoles specifically to your feet and the specific pressures applied by you when walking and moving.
• You may get blisters the first time you wear your boots, in which case allow these to heal before attempting to wear your boots again.
• The more you wear in your boots the more comfortable they will become, and the more supple the leather will become. You can later begin to wear normal socks as the boot will have literally moulded to your feet.
  
• Avoid techniques to speed up the breaking in process such as using oil or a hammer on the back of the boot, as this can cause damage and considerably shorten the lifespan of your boot.
• Depending on the toughness of the leather and structure of the boot, you should be able to break in your boots reasonably quickly and with ease. Boots such as Dr Martens however are notoriously hard to break in and may take a number of weeks.
• Your boots should now last for many years to come. Even once the sole has worn away, they can easily be replaced at a cobblers (shoe repair shop).

Thank you for all of your wonderful comments, I shall try to comment back as soon as possible :)

Mens Fashion Essentials: Jeans By DK

A pair of smart blue jeans are undoubtedly the most versatile article of clothing a man can own. They therefore require the most thought and research when buying, as they serve more an investment than a simple purchase. A well fitting and coloured pair of smart blue jeans are invaluable to a man's wardrobe as they can be worn with shoes and a shirt, yet equally look laid back and stylish with a t-shirt and plimsoles.

Although a man should obviously own more than one pair of jeans, this is a guide for that important pair that can be worn to work and worn on your days off, yet at both times looking 'fashionable'. For a detailed overview of the denim jean, its history and the production of the various styles, I would recommend checking out the following documentary.


When it comes to buying that one pair of jeans that you can work smart or casual, I tend to give the example of Marc Jacobs. Marc Jacobs always wears a perfect example of this type of jean (and quite understandably so given his position). There are two main things to point out here: fit and colour. Getting these two points correct are the key to that perfect pair of smart jeans.

Fit

For smart jeans that look great when dressed down also, the fit is a crucial consideration. The cut of jeans you will want to go for depends heavily on your frame and build. Somebody like Marc can get away with wearing slim and skinny cut jeans as his thighs are quite slim and long. Strictly speaking your average man will want to go with well fitted 'slim' cut jeans, however if you are of a slightly stockier and short build, straight cut will serve you well. Equally those on the slimmer side can possibly get away with more 'skinny' cut jeans, those that are more tapered than 'slim' jeans. However here I feel the need to stress the fact that jeans that look sprayed on and fit like leggings have no place in a man's wardrobe.

The jeans should be fitted around the thighs, however not feel too tight or restrictive. The legs ought to be tapered, however your leg shape should determine the amount. Generally speaking you will want your jeans to be tapered at the bottom, so that you are able to wear smart shoes. The reason being that smart shoes tend to be slimmer than casual shoes or trainers, therefore the jeans need to fit properly around them. Length is also a key consideration, look for something more akin to casual trousers than general jeans. However remember than if you find jeans that fit well, yet are too long, they can easily be hemmed to your required length. One important thing to note is that this should be done after you first wash your jeans, due to the risk of shrinkage.

Here are a few tips for when you are shopping for your right fit:

• Make sure to take the belt you wear most often to try on with your jeans. Dress belts should never be worn with jeans, so go for a casual leather or webbing belt.
  
• Wear the shoes you intend to wear with your jeans, out shopping. Try them on with your jeans to get an idea of how the jeans will fall. Do not be afraid to ask in the shop for a pair of shoes to try on with the jeans, if they happen to sell them also.
• Try to get a feel for the everyday fit. By this I mean take time to walk around, squat and sit in the jeans. They should not feel restrictive or pull up too much when you are seated.
  
• If in doubt over waist size, go for something slightly tighter. The reason for this is that smart jeans tend to be worn slightly higher than your casual jeans. The denim will also stretch over time, meaning that they will relax and fit naturally once you start wearing them.

Colour and Fading

Colour and fading are also a vital consideration for smart jeans. A plain dark blue is the easiest colour choice, as it allows you a clean backdrop on which to build your outfit. The lack of any fading provides a sharp and clean look, yet the fact that the material is clearly denim gives a casual and modern choice. However if you want something slightly more casual and a little less crisp, slight fading can be a good choice. For this choice however, stick to dark denim with minimal fading, as too much fading will not provide the smart look we are trying to achieve. Some slight whiskering and honeycombing can look less finished and provide a nice contrast when dressed up. For an alternative choice a colour such as dark grey can also look quite nice, although for the purposes of an essential item, they are probably a second pair you can invest in rather than your primary.

Remember that as these are smart jeans any additional embellishment or detailing is for the most part best avoided. Some smaller details such as contrast stitching can be quite nice, however no additional embroidery. Also it should be noted that the back pockets should be as plain as possible, some slight stitching, such as the trademark patterns for Levis or Nudie are usually fine, however something like the painted gulls of Evisu are probably best reserved for casual jeans.

Raw Appeal

One type of denim jean is highly sought after by collectors and is made by the most exclusive of denim designers, with prices in the range of thousands. This type of jean is made from 'raw denim' (also sometimes known as 'dry'), which is essentially virgin denim.

For the majority of jeans on sale, whilst in production they have been washed and treated for the required effect. For example for faded jeans, they are often thrown into a tumbler with water and rocks in order to quickly achieve a worn in look. Jeans are usually washed in the factory, so that the immediate shrinkage is taken care of. Denim is an organic material, meaning that it is made from cotton and dyed with indigo, a plant extract. Once the material is dyed, it is left to dry and becomes 'denim'. The manufacturers will then wash the denim for the first time. When the denim first becomes wet the fabric will shrink due to its nature. By shrinking the denim immediately it is easier to work with, as the size and flexibility is now pre-set. It is important to note however that denim always maintains a slight flexibility despite the number of washes, and it is recommended to wash your jeans when you first buy them to get a better feel of their size.

The treatment of denim in the production process will also determine many of the characteristics of your jeans. Fading of jeans is usually done simply by tumbling them with rocks, and throwing away any jeans with sizeable holes or major damage. However this will understandably damage the denim and reduce its lifespan. Chemical fading via enzymes is another process that is used to give more precise fading, yet this also weakens the fabric as the enzymes quite literally eat away at the fabric. Similarly bleaching is a common practice, which provides high contrast fading, yet again reduces the lifespan of your jeans.

These processes provide that much looked for 'worn in' effect, however due to their harsh treatment of the denim, reduce the lifespan of the jeans. This was an actual conscious decision by denim manufacturers to boost profits. Originally all jeans were made of raw denim, the fading was done by the wearer and they would last for a number of years, becoming 'worn in' nautrally and over time. However for this highly desired fading and for the softening of the denim, it often required years of wear by the owner. This meant that jeans were not a common purchase, with one pair lasting for many years.

As such manufacturers felt they needed a way to boost profits by providing jeans for the consumer that gave the desired look, yet would not be the only pair they wore for a number of years. By providing pre faded jeans, they gave the desired look of being that persons favourite and most worn jeans. At the same time the process of fading reduced the lifespan of the jeans as the material was weakened, which meant that the consumer would have to return for another pair within a far shorter period of time. Another factor was that the consumer effectively invested no time at all in achieving the desired look of the jeans, meaning they were more willing to discard and replace.

Images courtesy of Superdenim Forum. First set: 4 months wear, one soak. Second set: 12 months year, two washes.

The appeal of raw denim, such as that worn by Marc Jacobs, lies in the early history of mass produced denim. Originally all jeans were made and sold out of raw denim. Given that they had never been washed, the colour was very deep due to the indigo dye and the jeans as a result also felt stiff. However even after a few hours wear creases would appear that were completey unique to the wearer and their body movements. The more they were worn the more these creases would be defined, providing a totally unique and personal look to the denim. The more they were worn, the more they would also adjust and flex to the wearer's body shape. Unlike pre washed denim, raw denim has the virtue of its original flexibility and versatility, meaning that the wearer could effectively mould their jeans. Any fading was done by the wearer and the investment of wearing was shown in beautifully custom and unique fading and creasing.

To this day this is something that designers and consumers will pay a hefty price tage for. Designers will often pay thousands to buy original 'vintage' denim from generations ago, to see how the denim has faded and the unique creasing of the wearer. These will then serve as inspiration for the colour and fading of that designer's own denim collection for the new consumers. Higher end denim of this nature is often hand faded, with the jeans being put onto scale model legs, which are then used to fade and crease in a 'natural' manner. The legs are bent and often sandpaper is used to fade at where the creases naturally occur.

Those consumers interested in raw denim jeans of their own for the creative individuality it provides are also willing to pay for the high end companies that manufacture it today in the original style. Japanese companies such as Evisu produce in their most limited edition collections, hand made raw denim jeans that have their highest price tags. However raw denim can also be bought at very affordable prices, such as those produced by brands such as Cheap Monday. Raw denim is often found in the premium section of collections, and as such is often made from selvage denim. Selvage denim is made from denim taken from the end of a loom, therefore the construction is much stronger. Selvage denim is easily recognisable by turning up the end of the leg of jeans, and looking for the tell tale band of material.

The individual fading of raw denim is highly sought after as it looks visually more coherent to the body of the wearer and has that personal touch. For example, if a person has their wallet in a certain pocket or carries their keys in a certain pocket, this will be reflected in the fading of their raw denim jeans. By looking at the top images of Marc Jacobs, it is easy to tell he is wearing raw denim, given that the creases and fading match to his natural body movements.

Another appealing factor of raw denim is that the fit is also far more individual to the wearer. The problem with jeans that tend to be mass produced is that the shrinkage has already occured in the factory, meaning that the jeans have a pre determined size with little or no flexibility. Raw denim means the owner can wear the jeans and allow the denim to stretch and shrink naturally to their body shape. One example of the flexibility and customisation ability of such jeans is the Levis Shrink To Fit jean, which actually comes in only three sizes. The owner will wear the jeans and sit in a bath of warm/hot water, allowing the denim to shrink to their individual size. The longer they stay in the bath the more the denim will shrink. Of course many of those who wear raw denim will actually put off washing their jeans for the first time in order to get a custom fit and better fading. The first time the jeans are washed, the indigo is uniformly washed off, meaning that contrasted fading is far harder to achieve afterwards.

General tips:

• The longer you wear raw denim before washing, the higher contrast in fading once you wash. Nudie recommend wearers to go 6 months before they first wash and Evisu recommend 5 washes in 4 years, however this is down to personal preference (and hygiene!).
• Try to wash all denim as little as possible as this decreases overall fading and the lifespan of the jeans.
• Wash jeans inside out to keep as much colour as possible and protect the stitching, which is actually closed off on the outside.
• Denim is best hand washed in room temperature water. Hot water can cause major shrinkage and colour seeping. Cold water can also the shock the fabric, meaning it will actually shrink more than in hot water in many cases.
• Try to avoid chemicals, especially biological cleaners as they damage the denim. Natural soaps such as Dr. Bronners or even plain water washes are preferred.
• Do not put your jeans in the dryer, let them hang dry as it prevents damage to the material. Hang drying is also actually a way freshening up your jeans if you do not wish to wash them too often, and is often the only recommended way of treating true vintage denim.
• Remeber that all jeans, regardless of whether they are raw, will shrink when you first wash them. However remember that raw denim will often shrink as much as 5% if required depending on water temperature.
  
• Indigo dye is the most common dye used in jeans and does bleed at first, so be careful of sofas and white trainers/shoes when wearing them at first.
• When storing your jeans, it is best not to fold them. One method is to hang them from a hook by a belt loop, however this can do damage to the stitching. The recommended method is to get a wooden clothes hanger with no cross bar and put each end through the belt loop at either end of the jeans and hang them so they fall naturally down.
• Remove your belt from the jeans when you are not wearing them. Leaving the belt actually damages the leather and causes weakening through creasing.
  

The main thing to remember is that your smart jeans are the pair you can wear dressed up and dressed down. When shopping keep in mind how they will look when dressed smart. This is the harder look to achieve and by virtue of the fact that they are denim jeans means they will automatically look good when worn casually.

Most importantly find jeans that you like and fit your body and personality!

I would also like to thank you all for your lovely comments and will try to comment you all back as soon as possible! -Dapper Kid

Au Courant: Men

Men

David Chu - Tumi

David Chu has managed to cleverly infuse a new level of sophistication into Tumi's once utilitarian look. Since entering as Executive Creative Director in 2007, he has turned Tumi into something quite, well, elegant. He combines 1920's and 1930's inspired looks with simplistic modern details, totally changing everything that was Tumi. "I wanted to make Tumi more glamorous and have more styles to it" said David Chu. While continuing in this stylish creative direction, Tumi has become a brand to give a second thought to when shopping for luxury luggage. While revamping Tumi, David Chu has also been busy with a new clothing line that mirrors his lifestyle. "I just turned 50", he says. "I travel a lot, I work out, my mind is active-it's a young mind and attitude, an aspirational lifestyle". Both Lincs DC and Bespoke are very different looks from Mr. Chu, but never the less the change is welcome.

At this point in David Chu's career he has little to prove. He has shown that his fashion designs can and will appeal to millions. He now adds Tumi to his list of success. -CK